CYCLO
by Michael S. Chu
31 July 1999
All photos courtesy Michael Chu
David Swires calls them rickshaws but in Vietnam, they are known as cyclos. Cyclos are 3 wheel bicycles outfitted with a passenger cab at the front and the operator is located towards the rear. Although designed for a single passenger, I saw as many as three Vietnamese crammed onto a single cyclo bicycle.
Cyclo Cyclo rider David L. Swires being pedaled down the street, on
his way to the Cholon marketplace. Located a short distance from
Saigon, Cholon is dominated by ethnic Chinese. Does Dave look
like he is enjoying himself?
...
While visiting Saigon, the cyclo became my preferred mode of transportation.
Although relatively slow, it allows one to get elbow to elbow
with the street traffic and street activities throughout the city.
The breeze in the face, the exciting scent of street food vending
stands as well as witnessing the common, everyday life while pedaling
down the tree lined streets of Saigon was exhilarating and distinctly
different from being on the inside of a taxi cab.
The "Lonely Planet" travel guide for Vietnam contained a sobering
description of the cyclos. According to the Planet, many of the
cyclo drivers were former professional men or ARVN officers but
like many others who sided with the South Vietnamese government,
they were punished. After the cease-fire they were stripped of
their citizenship and sent to re-education camps for many years.
Even after 20 years, many are prevented from returning to the
jobs they are qualified for and most do not have an official residence
permit, meaning they cannot own property or businesses.
United States Consulate US flag still flies in Saigon
...
(Ho Chi Mihn City). This flag is at a small US Consulate, adjacent
to the former embassy.
I met my cyclo driver outside the gates of the War Remnant Museum.
He offered to take me to the site of the former American Embassy
for one US dollar. Along the way he pointed out many interesting
features of the city. I ended up retaining his services for the
rest of the day. His name was Nguyen Van Dung. It sounded like
"Duke" so that is what I called him. Over coffee at a street café
I learned that he was 45 years old and had been pedaling his cyclo
for over 10 years. I also learned that he was a former ARVN lieutenant
in an armor unit at Da Nang from 1971 to 1975. We quickly became
friends and had several long conversations about the war years.
I did not however ask him about the "re-education" years as it
seemed to be too early in our friendship to make such inquires.
After dropping me at my hotel that evening Duke offered to pick
me up again for more touring the next day. Since Fritz and Swires
had already departed earlier that day, I figured it would be a
good way to spend my last day in Vietnam.
Duke was at curbside promptly at 10am and we continued our tour,
visiting several Saigon market places and pagodas. He cautioned
me about pick pockets at the market places and the protocol at
religious pagodas.
Gates of History Gates of the former US Embassy in Saigon where thousands of Vietnamese
civilians were left behind, just before the fall of Saigon in
April 1975. Except for the gates and perimeter walls, all structures
within the compound have since been demolished and apart from
a few museums, there are no remnants of the war anywhere in the
city.
...
Towards evening I asked him to take me to the Bihn noodle shop
for some Pho and Vietnamese spring rolls. This particular noodle
shop is a place Fritz, Swires and I had found several days earlier.
It is owned by Mr. Ngo Toai but operated by his son, grandson
and other family members. We had learned that the elderly Ngo
was a prominent figure in the Peoples Liberation Army (known as
the Viet Cong) and he was one of the masterminds in planning the
attack on the U.S. Embassy during the 1968 Tet offense. In fact,
the strategic planning occurred in the mezzanine of his noodle
shop, and he had the credentials and honor certificates to prove
it!
Pho Bihn Noodle Shop Michael Chu, David Swires and John Fritzinger at the Bihn noodle
shop, Saigon. The elderly gentleman is Mr. Ngo Toai, former VC
strategist. The attack on the US Embassy during the 1968 Tet offense
was planned in the mezzanine above his restaurant.
...
Duke and I dug into the Pho soup and spring rolls placed before
us. Tea was later brought to the table. While sipping the first
cup I noticed the elderly Mr. Ngo descending from the living quarters
above. He joined us for tea and we talked in broken English and
Vietnamese. Knowing it was my last day in Vietnam, they both wished
me a safe journey home and they eagerly shared wallet photos of
their families. Unlike previous conversations with Mr. Ngo and
Duke, nothing was said about the war years. It wasn't necessary.
We all knew each others background. But still, it struck me as
being an incredible dialog. A former high ranking VC, a former
ARVN officer and a former US Army Ranger sipping tea together,
wishing each other well!
Cu Chi Landscape Children on grazing buffalo, not to be confused with Gary Gentry.
While we remembered much of the landscape as being littered with
bomb craters, very few signs of the war remain. To their credit,
the Vietnamese people have done a remarkable job of putting the
war behind them. The country side is instead a continuous blanket
of greenery. The scattered trees in the background however testify
to the lingering effects of Agent Orange. This Cu Chi landscape
was once heavily forested. Although 30 years have past, it will
still take many more before the natural forest returns.
...
It was dark and raining heavily by the time Duke got me back to
the hotel. I tipped him with everything I had, saving just enough
to pay for the taxi fare to the airport and the departure tax.
I threw my clothes into my suitcase and started my countdown to
departure. But still my mind was focused on the dinner at the
Bihn noodle shop. As I boarded the taxi for my trip to the airport
I realized that my undefined purpose in returning to Vietnam was
answered at the Bihn noodle shop. My mission was accomplished.
Michael S. Chu
Co. G (RANGER) 75th Infantry